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A logical step-by-step you can run before bringing your MacBook in. Covers power, display, SMC resets on Intel and Apple Silicon, and the symptoms that point at a board fault.
A MacBook that won't turn on can mean five different things, and most of them are fixable for a lot less than a new MacBook. Before you assume the worst, work through this checklist. It's the same diagnostic flow we run at the bench in our Birmingham lab.
If you reach the bottom of the list and nothing's worked, book a free 15-minute diagnostic with us. We'll have an answer before you finish your coffee.
The fix depends entirely on which of these you're seeing.
Note which one applies and skip to that section.
This is the most common one. Try these in order.
1. Charger and cable check. Try a different USB-C cable AND a different charger. Cables fail far more often than chargers. If you only have one of each, borrow from a friend or the office before doing anything else.
2. The 90-second hold. Hold the power button for at least 60 seconds with the charger plugged in. MacBooks can fall into a low-power state where a normal click of the power button does nothing, but a long hold pulls them out.
3. SMC reset.
4. Check the charger LED. USB-C chargers don't have one, but if you're on a MagSafe 3 charger (M-series Pro and Max), the LED should glow amber while charging and green when full. No LED at all means either the cable is bad or the MagSafe connector on the MacBook is fried.
5. Inspect the charging port. Look inside the USB-C / MagSafe port with a torch. Dust, pocket lint, or worst of all bent pins will stop the charger making contact. Don't poke metal into it. If you see debris, a careful blast with compressed air can clear it. If you see corrosion or bent pins, that's a port replacement job.
If none of that wakes it up, the problem is internal. Most commonly the battery has failed in a way that's blocking the power-on sequence, or the charging IC on the logic board has died.
This is almost always a display problem, not a "dead MacBook". Try this.
1. Brightness. Sounds silly but it happens. Press F2 a few times. We've had MacBooks brought in for "dead screen" that had the brightness slammed to zero.
2. Torch test. Shine a torch at an angle on the screen. If you can see the desktop or login screen faintly, the backlight has died but the panel and logic board are fine. Backlight repairs are usually a fuse or a small component on the board, so relatively quick.
3. Plug into an external monitor. If the external display works perfectly, the laptop's logic board, GPU, and OS are all fine. It's a screen, screen cable, or backlight issue. If even the external is blank, it's deeper.
This is a software issue masquerading as a hardware one. Usually.
If even Recovery won't boot, the SSD has likely failed (or is failing). On older MacBooks the SSD is replaceable. On most modern ones it's soldered to the logic board, and recovery is board-level work.
Two main culprits.
The display cable. The cable that runs from the logic board to the screen passes through the hinge. Every open and close flexes it. Some MacBook Pro models had a known issue called "flexgate" where this cable wore through. Symptoms: backlight dies along the bottom, screen flickers when you open it past 90 degrees.
GPU failure. On older Intel models with discrete GPUs, the graphics chip can lift off the logic board over time, thanks to thermal stress. Symptoms: graphical artefacts, sudden black screens, kernel panics.
Both are fixable. Flexgate is a cable swap. GPU work is board-level reflow or replacement.
These are diagnostic codes. Apple's official meanings:
If your MacBook has user-replaceable RAM (older models mostly), reseat the sticks. If it's soldered (everything modern), this is a board-level diagnostic.
If you've gone through your section and nothing's working, stop. You've now confirmed the issue is hardware, and continuing to poke at it can make things worse. Plugging a dying MacBook in repeatedly can take out the charging IC. Trying to force-boot a corrupted SSD can cost you data.
We offer a free 15-minute diagnostic at our Hockley lab. Walk in, we'll have it open on the bench, and you'll have an honest answer and a quote before you leave.
We can't quote without seeing the device. Board-level work is hugely variable. But common fault categories at a glance:
All MacBook work comes with our lifetime craftsmanship warranty.
Should I take it to the Apple Store first? Apple will replace whole assemblies, not repair them. A logic board fault on an out-of-warranty MacBook can be £600+ from Apple, where the underlying fix is one or two component swaps for a fraction of that. Get a second opinion.
My MacBook is 5+ years old. Is it even worth fixing? Often yes. M-series MacBooks have a long useful life ahead of them. Even older Intel models are perfectly usable for everyday work. The question is the ratio of repair cost to remaining value, and we'll be honest if it doesn't make sense.
Will I lose my files? On Apple Silicon Macs, even a totally dead logic board doesn't necessarily mean dead data. We can recover from the soldered SSD in many cases via DFU. On Intel Macs with removable drives, it's almost always recoverable. Either way, we tell you the realistic odds before you commit.
Do you fix water-damaged MacBooks? Yes. See our MacBook spilled water guide. Speed matters enormously.
Stuck? Book a free 15-minute diagnostic at 85b Hockley Street and we'll find the fault on the bench.
We're a Birmingham-based phone & laptop repair lab. Same-day fixes, lifetime craftsmanship warranty.